Nanette of DwellSmart (www.dwellsmart.com) is preparing to transform their branches into the laminate. DecoPoz will be manufactured by using the counters of overlap, followed by a patch of concrete and sealer. After the redesign, its counter is transformed to look like solid cement counters are a fraction of the cost of the new meter.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWzFM5Lz_hk&hl=en
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There are not many among us who have not – at some time or another – tackled a home project ourselves in order to save money and maximize our renovation dollars. In some cases, this may have been a wise and successful decision that stretched our budget and allowed us to get the materials that we wanted at a fraction of the cost because of money saved on installation.
In the kitchen especially, there exists a bevy of opportunities for do-it-yourselfers to save money while still having the materials that they desire. Countertops, especially, offer a tool savvy homeowner the opportunity to tackle installation themselves – often saving thousands of dollars. Learning how to install countertops, of course, is the first step in a successful do-it-yourself project of this kind.
Any motivated do-it-yourselfer can learn how to install countertops in a short period of time. Luckily, the rise in comprehensive home improvement stores has given way to the in-store workshop where a number of projects are presented in a step-by-step instructional format.
It is always a safe bet to start here; not only will you learn from professionals about how to get the job done safely and right but you can be walked through the materials that you need to purchase to prepare for the job.
Working with laminates is the easiest countertop installation with which to begin. Flexible and easy to handle, laminates are the most commonly used countertop material in kitchens across the nation. Consumers often choose laminates for their cost, versatility, and durability.
In essence, laminates are a thin material made from plastic that is simply glued to a piece of plywood or particleboard. Laminates today come in an extensive variety of colors, styles, and textures; some styles are even made to replicate more expensive materials such as granite and ceramic tile.
The drawbacks to laminate include the material’s vulnerability to moisture, heat, and scratches. Because the material adheres to plywood, any moisture that collects within it can cause warping and irreversible damage. Further, cutting directly on the surface is not advised as scratch marks can easily result; as can burn marks from placing hot plates or pans directly on the surface of the laminate.
Installing a laminate surface is the best way to learn how to install countertops as such installation can be accomplished quickly and easily. First and foremost, the existing countertop must be removed, cleaned, and dried thoroughly. Following this, the countertop must be properly prepared for a new laminate.
Sanding the existing countertop will “rough up” the material and provide a good surface to which the new laminate can adhere. Laminate glue is then applied to the surface of the countertop; this must be done as evenly as possible as any uneven glue will result in bubbling and a less than flush countertop surface.
The last thing you will learn in how to install countertops is the application of the laminate itself. Because the first contact is critical in obtaining the maximum adhesion, it is very important to make sure the laminate and the countertop are perfectly aligned. Using ¼” wooden dowels and at set intervals may prove to be helpful when properly lining up the laminate to the countertop.
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Information fixmycabinet.com Video Review of Formica Brand SP-949 cabinets and laminate floors to be used. This plan shows the kitchen in which direction (or direction), the grain runs in an arc, and what the model looks like a laminate floor seam. I also show how the high ridges, are my fingers along the ridges. Mica is in certain directions on counter edges, surfaces and backsplash areas top are implemented. It 's a very difficult materialwhen working with its production of counters or cabinets. You can not bend a very small radius and the chip edges very easily, if the laminate routing. And 'certainly the best way to ensure a brand new router to the machine for the manufacture of desks, cabinets or furniture with this color Formica Brand 949-SP. Just for the record that Ant is very fragile.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zLvkIIawck&hl=en
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Item S4029 is a certificate for 845 square feet of Formica laminate flooring valued at $4220 from Krazy Toms Sleep Shop & Floor Store in Cooperstown, NY. Add beauty, fashion and function to your home with this certificate for laminate flooring from Krazy Toms. This Mirabella series Formica flooring is in the Chateau Oak color and has 10 mm thick planks with semi-piano and random-pitted finish, micro-beveled edges, a wear-resistant surface and is virtually effortless to install and maintain. This premium flooring will add a touch of class and style to any room.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_O7isj3Eadw&hl=en
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Nowadays, wooden furniture isn’t what it used to be. Solid wood is now considered somewhat of a luxury item, and the market is now flooded with laminated wood, or wood-pattered paper over chipboard furniture, to give it that “wood look.” Some of it is better than others, but for the most part, it isn’t as sturdy as solid wood, nor is it as pretty.
A few years ago, I ordered a very large desk and hutch combination from a nationwide chain of stores that sells office furniture. It looked good on the internet and in person, so I bought it. Little did I know, and the salesman neglected to mention, that for $1000 I’d get a bunch of heavy boxes of mostly laminated chipboard, with two solid wood parts, the desk top and the hutch top. The rest was all “wood look.” Never having dealt with this before, I was more concerned about putting a very large desk together than in the materials. I had to hire a friend to do it, because the store wanted an additional $700 if I wanted them to come put it together for me.
For three days, my friend Kevin glued, drilled and pounded nails to make my desk. In the end, the unit looked great and I was very happy. As time went on, though, it was evident that any nick or bump could mar the chipboard laminate sides and shelves. Moving was a nightmare, because everything got dinged up by the movers, just in everyday handling. Where do you go out and buy matching strips of “wood look” paper to cover damaged areas, without it looking cheap and tacky? I’m not good with this sort of thing, so the whole desk is now in storage until I figure it all out. In the meantime, I went and bought a solid mahogany desk for more money, which was worth every penny I paid. The lesson to me is, to buy real wood in the first place, or go without. This way, hard-earned money isn’t wasted on something that is less durable and hard to fix.
A friend gave me a bookshelf unit when I moved to Florida, she no longer wanted it since she was moving up north. It looked new, but then I soon realized that it too, had issues of it’s own. It was formica over particleboard, and couldn’t handle the weight of my books. It began to bow in the middle, so I gave it to someone else. Again, I bought a large hardwood bookcase and it can hold all my books and then some.
To sum it all up, it is best to save up and buy real wood whenever possible. This way, maybe the whole chipboard laminate or “wood look” paper-covered phase of furniture making will fall by the wayside due to lack of public interest. Look at the lovely Victorian furniture, and hand-carved furniture of other countries. I usually buy American products but not if they aren’t made well enough. My current desk was imported from India, and is solid mahogany with dovetailed joints and hand-carved accents. It is well-made and strong. With shipping, I paid $1200 for it, and it was worth every penny. Choose quality items and they will last a long time. Don’t fall for the lure of furniture that isn’t well-made but looks attractive. Shop around and compare to be on the safe side. You will be glad that you did.
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fixmycabinet.com When using a router for trimming Formica the machine has a proper direction to be moved when cutting the plastic laminate on countertops or cabinet parts. The correct way to run a router is counter clockwise on the outside cuts and clockwise on inside cuts. Important instructions Always use a lubricant on the laminate edge where the trim bit will ride. Wax. oil, soap or even spit will work. If you do not use anything, you may mar the edges of the decorative laminate. In this demonstration, I am using an offset router for trimming the Formica. This type of machine allows the user to be able to trim plastic laminate that is close to walls. It’s an expensive power toll, but if you plan on doing a lot of resurfacing of countertops or cabinets, it’s a great investment. So, that’s it. If you were wondering what direction the router goes when cutting Formica, watch the video tutorial.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPZgBlB4paw&hl=en
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Hotels bathtub refinishing or hotels bathtub reglazing is helping hotel owners save money on costly bathroom renovations especially in a tough and tight economic time. Bathtub refinishing has become a big part of a hotel’s bathroom renovation since it is only 20% of the cost of a typical bathtub tear-out and replacement. Importantly, in as much as the market is softening, hotels owners need to understand that now is not the time to ignore facility and room maintenance.
This is highly significant since guests expect clean surroundings and rooms with everything in working condition. They also require that bathtubs, sinks, countertops look almost like new in their bathrooms.
Here are the facts about the hotel industry:
As with the housing market, hotels in the U.S. are bracing for more foreclosures or bankruptcies this year. “Occupancy and revenue are expected to plummet this year. About 36% of full-service U.S. hotels will lack the cash flow needed to pay their monthly mortgages in 2009 vs. 21% in 2008,” says Mark Woodworth of PKF Hospitality Research.
Bathtub refinishing helps to retain hotel guests in a tight economy.
Money for maintaining a facility is very hard to find in a recession. That is why it is very important to consider each of the money spending choices very carefully. There are two choices for hotel owners when it comes to their bathtubs during bathroom renovation: Reglaze the bathtubs or replace them.
Some points to ponder about bathtub replacement:
Bathtubs are installed during framing because they are huge and are framed in. The old tub can be broken up with a sledge hammer and taken out in pieces, but the new tub has to be squeezed in. That means removing enough tile and board behind it to deal with tipping the new tub in at an angle — one end slightly higher than the other.
In addition, an old cast iron/porcelain tub weighs about 200 lbs and even the pieces are heavy — yes, those broken ends are sharp. It’s a lot of heavy work and requires some knowledge. After the demolition, the old tub pieces have to be taken to a landfill. At the end, the new bathtub may cost less than $300.00, but with all the tear-out and payments to a plumber, tile setter and disposal fees, tub replacement can cost up to $1500.00. The project may last a week or more.
On the other hand, bathtub refinishing is done in the bathroom and price range for tub refinishing is from $250 to $450 depending on the number of bathtubs refinished. The refinished bathtubs can be used by guests twenty four hours later.
Other hotels refinishing services:
o Pedestal sink
o Laminate or formica countertop
o Ceramic tiles
o Fiber glass and acrylic bathtubs and enclosures
o Cultures marble tubs
o Spot repairs of cracked tubs and sinks
As the economy continues to tighten, many hotels will be looking for ways to save money on bathroom renovation. Bathtub refinishing saves up to 80% of the cost of tub replacement.
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This is our floor in our dream house we just built. The floor salesman from Floor Experts said this is a classy floor. I think it looks like factory seconds. I hate to even look at it. It has marks all over it that look like scuff marks. And the company says this is what it is suppose to look like! If I was made aware of these marks in the first place, I wouldn’t have bought them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SgR_8OT1jKQ&hl=en
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The following instructions are intended to save you time, effort and money when it comes to installing plastic laminate or Formica on countertops.
Laminated plastics are available in many hardware and home improvement stores in a wide variety of colors, designs and patterns, and they have many applications, such as for countertops, tabletops and flooring among others. Sheets of laminated plastic are available both in dull or gloss finish, so you have a choice when preparing for a project. Laminated plastic is made from layers of paper that are injected with resin and bonded together under with a great deal of pressure and high temperature in order to form a strong, rigid sheet.
When preparing the surface- Laminated plastic sheets of 1/16″ thickness are usually recommended when working on a flat surface. On vertical surfaces you should use 1/32″ thickness sheets. Thoroughly sand and clean the surface where you plan to apply the plastic laminate, removing any paint, varnish, dirt or imperfections in the surface. Although many manufactured countertops utilize high-density particle board for their surfaces, regular particle board or plywood may be more ideal bases for plastic laminates.
When cutting laminated plastics- You can use a circular saw, saber saw, backsaw or utility knife to cut through plastic laminate. If you plan on using a saw, make sure that the saw blade is a fine-tooth blade. If you use a strip of masking tape along the cut line, it will help prevent chipping and make the line much easier to see while cutting. If you’re using a power circular saw, or a table saw, cut on the back side of the laminate to prevent chipping. Cut at a low angle from the front side if you’re using a hand saw to cut the laminated plastic. In order to allow for trimming, make sure to cut the sheet of laminated plastic slightly larger than what you will need. You may also consider using a straightedge or a steel square in order to create a smoother and even cut. You can use a utility knife to score the laminated plastic, then lift the shorter end and apply a slight pressure to snap the scored line. Make sure to choose the proper cutting implement based on the size of the job.
When Applying Laminated Plastics- You can usually use contact cement to apply laminated plastic. Epoxy adhesives can also be used but in general, contact cements are recommended. You should first roughen the surface using coarse grit sandpaper, but make sure to clean the sanding residue away with compressed air or a light brush to ensure that the surface is as clean as possible. Next, you will want to brush on the contact cement, applying it to both the counter surface and the back of the clean laminate sheet. After both surfaces have dried, you can lay the sheets of laminate down.
To finish Off the Job- Use a roller to apply pressure to the newly applied sheets of plastic laminate. Make sure to roll the entire surface thoroughly in order to eliminate any trapped air pockets, and to be sure that the plastic is attached firmly at all points. You can also use a wooden block and mallet in order to assure proper adhesion on the newly laid surface, by working out any trapped bubbles and pressing both contact cement layers together as much as possible. If there is any extra contact cement where it should not be, you can remove it with a special solvent, or with nail polish remover.
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